Cloth and a method of producing the same



Feb. 7, 1939. T. WOLFF 2,146,664

CLOTH AND A METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed April 18, 1938 &

772eo dor Wo/ff Patented Feb. 7,v 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT. OFFICECLOTH AND A METHOD OF PRODUCIN G THE SAME This inventionrelates to a newtype of cloth, more particularly for the manufacture of men's and boyssuits, and to a method of producing the same.

In a suit of clothes, which for the purpose of the description will beconsidered to comprise three parts, viz., the jacket, the waistcoat andthe trousers, although the waistcoat itself is not an essential part ofthis combination, the disadvantage. arises that the trousers, after acertain I period of use, will exhibit considerable signs oi wear, whilstthe jacket and the waistcoat are still in a comparatively goodcondition, so that it is necessary eitherto discard the entire-suit orto purchase an additional pair of trousers to wear with the jacket andthe waistcoat. In the majority of cases, however, the same material andthe same pattern will not be obtainable, so that new trousers ,of adifferent pattern and pos- Zn sibly also a different material willrequire to take the place of the worn pair. In this way the suit willconsiderably lose in appearance.

It is the object of the invention to overcome this drawback and toprovide a new type of cloth for the manufactureof men's and boys suits,

upon the use of which it' can reasonably be expected that the' trouserswill endure, without deterioration in appearance, equally as long as the'jacket or the waistcoat.

" A further object of the invention is to provide a new type of clothfor men's and boys suits which, when made from this cloth, will notdiffer in appearance from a suit of clothes made from a normal material.

In the manufacture of suitings itis usual for the weaver to produce acertain minimum length, say 360 yards, of each pattern or design, asalthough it would of course be possible in itself to produce any designin even the shortest length 40 it will be obvious that a certain minimumlength is necessary to enable the material to be sold at a reasonableprice.

In the reduction of the invention to practice each design is" made up oftwodifierent kinds of cloth, the one cloth being intended for.-the

subsequent production of the jacket and waistcoat and the other for thetrousers. The former is woven from threads 01' equal ply constitutingboth the warp as well as the weft, for example 50 two-cordor two-plythreads. The second cloth, however, is made up of a material having thesame set of warp threads as the first piece of I cloth, but in whichthe'weit threads consist of a greater number of plies than the warpthreads.

55 Thus, for example, the warp and weft threads,

of the first cloth may be two-cord or'two-ply threads, whilst in thesecond cloth the warp threads are two-cord or two-ply and theweftthreads three-cord or three-plyth'reads. The

second cloth, whilst not difiering in appearance, '5 will beconsiderably stronger than the first'cloth, and will be well adapted towithstand the additional wear imposed onthe-trousers of a. mans or boy'ssuit.

In order to preserve the appearance of the cloth 10 and to ensure thatthe two'cloths making up the one design will not differ in appearance itis necessary to select finer cords or plies for the thread of greaterply, so that the latter, despite the greater number of cords, will notbe apprel5 ciably thicker than thethreads of lesserply.

In the ordinary way greater length of material will be required for thejacket and. waistcoat together than for the trousers, so that it thecompletelength of any particular pattern produced amounts to 360 yards,approximately 210 yards will be made upof threads which are equal in.the weft and the warp, whilst the remaining 150 yards will .comprisethe second cloth in which the weft threads consist of an increasednumber of cords or plies.

Preferably, therefore, the two different cloths will be in onecontinuous length, and the second cloth will follow immediately on thefirst cloth without a break, although if desired the two difierentcloths making up the one design can also be produced separately, inwhich connection the length of each may be increased in corresponding"proportion.

'jected to acertainfinishing process before it is placed on the market.If the yarn has not been dyed previously, the cloth proceeding from theloom is first treated in a bath to remove the size or glue employed inweaving for better holding 40 the threads together, isthen dyed,squeezed, rinsed in water, thereupon dried and stretched, and finallyatter renewed moistening is pressed. and ironed on a calenderj Iipreviously dyed yarn is employed the treatment is substantially the samewith. omission of the dyeing process. There may of course be certainmodifications in this treatment dependent on the nature of the material.Whether, however,. the two cloths comprising the one design inaccordance with the invention be produced in one piece or in separatelengths it is essential that. they should be subjected to the saidfinishing treatment in one operation. It will be appreciated that intreating cloth in the manner'described the sliflhtest variation in thetreatment would be quite sumcient to impart an entirely differentappearance to two lengths of cloth treated separately. Thus for exampleit is extremely difficult in the dyeing process alone to obtain a colourexactly corresponding to a previous shade employed, whilst variations inthe washing or calendering process will also produce entirely diiferentresults.

In consequence,.if the cloth destined for the jacket and the waistcoatand that for the trousers were subjected to separate finishingtreatments, they would in all probability exhibit considerablediilerences in appearance despite the fact that no difference in itselfis in any way apparent from the use of difl'erent yarns.

The invention, therefore, covers not only the production of cloth of anyparticular design in the form of two distinct cloths, in which the weftthreads of the one cloth diifer from the weft threads of the other-cloth, but also the step which consists in subjecting the two clothsthus produced to a common finishing treatment.

. If the two cloths are produced in one'single length, they willpreferably be passed as such through the treatment apparatus, or it theyare produced separately, they may be connected together at the ends topass through the apparatus as a continuous web.

The invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanyingdrawing, in which Fig. 1 illustrates a piece of cloth, in which the warpand weft threads are of equal ply.

Fig. 2 illustrates a piece of cloth, in which the weft threads comprisea larger number or plies than the warp threads.

Fig. 3 illustrates diagrammatically a finishing apparatus for thetreatment of the cloth following the weaving process.

. In Fig. 1 the warp threads I and the weft threads 2'are two-cordthreads. This cloth is" used for producing. the jacket and the waistcoatof a mans or boys suit. In Fig. 2 the warp threads la are two-cordthreads and the weft threads 2a are three-cord threads. The clothaccording to Fig. 2 is used for producing the trousers of a mans orboy's suit, the jacket and/or waistcoat of which are made from a clothaccording to Fig. 1.

There is no limitation to two-cord and threecord threads, and the warpthreads may he, say, two-cord or two-ply threads and the weft threadsfour-cord or four-ply threads, or thewarp threads may be three-cord orthree-ply threads and the weft threads four-cord or five-cord threads,and so forth, the essential feature being that the weft threads of thecloth according to Fig. 2 possess a greater number of cords than theweft threads in Fig. 1.

The weaving itself occurs in the conventional fashion, there being usedeither dyed or undyed yarn. In either case a certain length of cloth iswoven in accordance with Fig. 1, having equally corded threads in thewarp and the weft, and then a further length in accordance with Fig. 2in which the weft threads comprise a greater number of cords or plies.In the cloth according to Fig. 2 finer cords will be employed for theyarn of greater ply, so that after the twisting the three-cord orthree-ply yarn will of cords] araaeea sign, rather more than one-half ofthis length,

say 210 yards, is produced in accordance with Fig. l, whereupon the weftthreads are replaced by others of the same colour, but of greater ply,and weaving is continued to the end. 5

If a sufiicient length of cloth of each design is being produced, it mayalso be found convenient to produce separately the two cloths of whicheach design according to the invention is composed.

' In either case, however, the two different cloths making up the onedesign are subjected to a common finishing treatment, for example in an'apparatus as illustrated in Fig. 3.

.After leaving the loom the cloth is conducted 15 to a suitable bath ortrough 3 for removal of the size or glue employed for the weavingprocess for better holding the threads together. From the bath 3 thecloth passes to the dyeing vat 4, and thence to a rinsing bath 5. Uponleaving the'bath' 5 it passes between rollers 6 for the removal ofsuperfluous moisture, and then to a drier l and a steaming orconditioning apparatus 8. After leaving the latter it is suitablymoistened at 9 and then passes to the calender l0, being finally woundon the drum II. If previously dyed yarn has been employed in weaving thecloth, the treatment is substantially the same with omission of thedyeing process.

Assuming the two appertaining cloths of the so one design have beenproduced in one length. the complete web of material will be passed as;such through the said apparatus. If, however, they have been producedseparately, they can be connected end to end and then conveyed through3; the apparatus, or they can also be treated simultaneously as separatelengths. Whichever method is adapted, it will be obvious that bothcloths will have a completely uniform appearance throughout.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Steps in a method of producing cloth for suits of clothes all partsof which present substantially identical design, appearance, and finish,while varying in strength, comprising weaving the cloth in a pluralityof sections having the same set of warp threads throughoutsaid sections,by weaving one section with weft threads of equal ply with said warpthreads, weaving another section with weft threads of a greater numberof plies than said warp threads and of a' greater number of plies thanthe weft threads of the first mentioned section, all of said threadshaving substantially the same thickness or diameter, and subjecting. thesections substantially simultaneously to the same washing and finishingtreatments in substantially one operation.

2. Steps in a method of producing cloth for suits of clothes all partsof which present substantially identical design, appearance, and finish,while varying in strength, comprising weaving the cloth in a singlecontinuous length comprising a plurality of sections, and having thesame set of warp threads throughout said length, by weaving one sectionof said continuous length with weft threads of equal ply with said warpthreads, weaving another section of said continuous length with weftthreads of a greater number of plies than said warp threads and of agreater number of plies than the weft threads of the first mentionedsection, all of said threads having substantially the same thicknessor'diameter, and subjecting the sections of said continuous length ofcloth substantially simultaneously to the same 7 one operation.

. greater number of plies 3. As a new article or manufacture, cloth in aplurality of sections of substantially identical design and appearancefor making suits of clothes, said cloth sections or waistcoat havingweft threads of equal ply with said ,warp threads, and the other sectionas for making'the trousers having weft threads of 9. than said warpthreads and of a greater number of plies than the weft threads of theflrst mentioned section, all of said threads having substantially thesame thickness or diameter, the sections having substantially identicalappearance and same washing and finishing treatments in substantiallyone operation.

, having the same set of warp threads, one section for making the jacketfinish and having been subjected substantially simultaneously to thestantially identical design,

waistcoat having weft threads or equal ply with said warp threads, andthe other section as for making thetrousers having weft threads of agreater number of plies than said warp threads and of a greater numberof plies than the weft threads of the first mentioned section, all ofsaid threads of said continuous length having substantially the samethickness or diameter, the sections of said continuous length havingsubstan-' tially identical appearance and finish and having beensubjected substantially simultaneously to the same washing and finishingtreatmentsin substantially one operation.

5. As a new article of manufacture, cloth for suits of clothes all partsof which present substantially identical design, appearance, and finish,while varying in strength, made according to the method 0! claim 1.

6. As a new article of manufacture, cloth for suits of clothes all partsof which present subappearance, and flnish, while varying in strength,made according to the method of claim 2.

THEODOR WOLFE.

